Surf Stories: History, Hurricanes, and Heroes
Hey Surf Snappers! Grab your board and your camera, because we've got some tales from the water that will inspire you and remind you of the ocean's power. From the legends who shaped the sport to the wild conditions surfers are facing, there's a lot to dive into.
The Oom: South African Surfing's Founding Father
In South Africa, a new book is celebrating the life of John Whitmore, known as The Oom, who is credited with discovering J-Bay and bringing surfing to the country. For over a decade, surfer and author Miles Masterson poured his heart into The Oom, a biography that pieces together Whitmore's incredible story. Imagine being the first to surf Jeffrey's Bay and Bruce's Beauties! His connections with the "Dana Point Mafia" even inspired Bruce Brown's *The Endless Summer*. This book is a must-read for anyone who loves surfing's history.
California's Surf Shapers: The Queens and Kings
Right here in the US, the legendary shapers of Santa Barbara are still at it. Santa Barbara has always been a hub for innovation, with surfers and shapers like Renny Yater, George Greenough, and Merrick pushing the boundaries. As Ella Heydenfeldt writes in The Independent, the unique waves of Rincon created a demand for boards that could ride high and fast. If you're ever in Santa Barbara, check out the Surf N' Wear beach house to see some history in the making. These shapers are living legends, and their boards are still sought after today.
Florida's Hurricane Surf: Danger on the Horizon
Meanwhile, down in Florida, surfers are dealing with the messy aftermath of two churning hurricanes. As WESH reports, the conditions are so rough that even some seasoned surfers are staying out. Local surfer Marco Arapian put it bluntly: 'It's terrible. It's just a messy, real mess.' Lifeguards have already made about 15 rescues, and now they're turning their attention to the dangerous rip currents that are expected. Stay safe out there, Florida surfers!
Whether you're reminiscing about the past, admiring the craft of shaping, or braving the big waves, these stories show the heart and soul of surfing. What's your favorite surf story? Share it in the comments below!