Storm Surfers & River Waves: Wild Sessions Unfold
Surfing’s wild side comes alive this week with three stories that push boundaries – from hurricane swells on the East Coast to river waves in Hawaii and crucial wipeout tips. Get ready for sessions that prove our sport’s never boring.
First up, Ben Gravy’s chasing Atlantic storms paid off big time. Most of this year’s named systems fizzled out, but Hurricane Humberto delivered the goods. Gravy spotted forecast gold: 'We’re looking at some really nice, solid hurricane conditions.' He packed boards and watched the swell transform from tiny 16-second pulses into something that would make East Coast groms drool. 'By tomorrow morning it’s going to be bigger, by tomorrow afternoon it should be bombing.' And bomb it did. You can catch the full swell saga right here.
Meanwhile in Hawaii, Jamie O’Brien turned a pre-dawn mission into river wave perfection. When the Waimea River’s working, it’s one of the planet’s most unique playgrounds. O’Brien hit the water at 5:30 AM, shovel in hand, to help shape the wave. As sandbanks shifted throughout the day, the wave just kept improving. 'This is going to be an amazing one,' Jamie predicted early. By noon, he was calling it 'the best river in the last 10 years.' Check Jamie’s magic session over at The Inertia.
What about surviving the moments that don’t go perfectly? Matt Bromley’s got your back with wipeout wisdom. ‘You never really know what is going to happen in a wipeout,’ he admits. After decades of hunting barrels, he’s learned critical survival tips: ‘Never dive head first into the base of the wave. You could be only a foot deep and connecting with the reef.’ His ‘feet first’ philosophy could save your next session. Dive into Bromley’s safety secrets here.
Whether you’re chasing hurricane swells, hunting river waves, or just trying to stay upright, these stories remind us why we paddle out. What adventure’s calling your name next?