Surf Stories That Shine: Hope, Heroes & History
Surfing’s more than just carving waves—it’s about the people, the moments, and the memories that shape our ocean world. This week, we’ve stumbled upon three tales that capture the soul of surfing. From life-changing mentorship to legendary sessions and epic rescues, these stories prove why we’re all stoked to be part of this tribe. Let’s dive in!
Surf Therapy in Durban: Turning Tides into Triumphs
Picture this: turquoise waters, infectious laughter, and a bunch of kids who’ve seen the toughest streets charge waves like they own them. That’s the magic of Surfers Not Street Children in Durban. Founded by Tom Hewitt, this crew’s been turning lives around since 1998—starting with soccer and drama, then pivoting to surfboards when a kid named Thulani said, “Tom, I want to be a surfer.” Fast forward, and these Zulu pioneers broke barriers in a once-white-dominated sport. “People would stand on the piers in disbelief,” Hewitt recalls. “They were heroes.” Talk about riding a wave of change!
Nate Lawrence’s Holy Grail: Why Mentawais 2020 Still Reigns Supreme
Ever wonder what the world’s top surf photographer considers the “best surfing ever seen”? Nate Lawrence—who’s been lensing legends for 25 years—just narrowed it down to one unforgettable Indo trip. While Japan’s 2011 sessions were epic, nothing beat the San Clemente crew (Kolohe Andino, Griffin Colapinto, Crosby Colapinto, Luke Davis, and Ian Crane) in the Mentawais during 2020’s empty-barrel bliss. “8-hour sessions, god-tier surf, and surfers in their primes,” Lawrence sums up. You can catch the full breakdown right here. Pro tip: Grab some coffee before pressing play—you’ll be glued to your screen.
Rescuing Aussie Surf Film History: One Frame at a Time
Australia’s surf heritage was fading away—literally. Hours of vintage footage from the 70s sat rotting in a Byron Bay garage until Jolyon Hoff raced to the rescue. Five years and countless cupboards later, he’s breathing new life into dusty reels that shaped our sport. “Nobody was looking after it,” Hoff admits. Now, his restoration work ensures legends like Ross Clarke Jones live on for future generations. It’s a labor of love that reminds us: every wave, wipeout, and water drop deserves a place in the archives. For the full story, dive in here.
So whether you’re chasing barrels or chasing change, these stories prove surfing’s heartbeat is alive and thriving. Share the stoke—tag your crew and let us know which tale hit home.