That one time I almost missed the whole race
Here’s a moment I still cringe about: I was at a track with no rail fences, so I had to park 200 yards from the action. The car was flying down the straightaway at 200 mph, and I was stuck with a 200mm lens. My first shot was blurry. Like, ‘what even is motion blur?’ I learned fast: if you can’t get closer, you need a faster shutter than you think. That day, I shot at 1/2000s, but even that was too slow. The result? A photo that looked like someone took a picture of a speed blur. Turns out, even 1/2000s isn’t always enough in NASCAR. But once I figured out how to adjust, it changed everything.
The real headache: distance and light
NASCAR isn’t like capturing a baseball game. At many races, you’re not right next to the action. Tracks are huge, and the cars move fast. Plus, lighting changes constantly. Indoors? You’re dealing with stadium lights that flicker. Outdoors? Weather can mess with it—dust storms, rain, or even the golden hour fading too fast. I once shot a night race with only spotlights. My ISO had to be 3200 just to see the car. Grainy? Yeah. But the shot of the tire spinning? It was worth it.
Fix it with settings and position
Here’s what actually works. First, shutter speed. Shoot 1/2000s or faster. That’s not a ‘pro tip’—that’s the minimum. If your camera can’t do that, buy a better one. Next, aperture. Use f/8 or f/11. It’s not about ‘depth of field’ (which is jargon). It’s about balancing light and motion. If you go wider (like f/4), the car might look blurry. If you go narrower (f/16), your ISO jumps, and grain ruins the shot. ISO? Keep it under 1600 if possible. Higher means more grain, but in fast action, you’ll trade grain for clarity.
Position matters too. Find a spot where you’re not fighting the angle. If you’re on the side of the track, shoot toward the center of the action. If you’re in the grandstands, move to where the car’s path lines up with your lens. And don’t stay in one spot. NASCAR is unpredictable. The car might not be where you think. Move with it. Or at least pivot your body as it passes.
The mistake most people make
They try to ‘pan’ like you would with a slow-moving subject. But in NASCAR? Panning at 1/500s or slower usually fails. The car’s too fast. Instead, either use a fast shutter and let the background blur (which is okay—it adds speed) or practice tracking the car with your eyes and locking focus. Track it. Don’t just hope the shutter catches it.
What changes when you get it right
Your photos stop looking like a slow-motion video of a blur. You start capturing details—the driver’s face, the spray from the tires, the way the car leans into a turn. People start noticing your shots. Maybe a fan asks where you got them. Maybe a local team notices your work and wants you to shoot their next event. It’s not about being ‘professional.’ It’s about showing you understand the sport enough to get the shots that matter.
Turn this into paid work (no pressure)
NASCAR photography can pay. Not like millions, but enough to cover gear or fund more trips. Local clubs or amateur races often need photos for social media. Teams might pay for action shots of their cars. Even individual drivers sometimes hire photographers for personal events. And platforms like Surf Snaps let you upload your shots and sell them directly to fans. I’ve sold prints of my race-day photos for $50-$100. Not life-changing, but enough to keep buying better lenses.
One small step to try next
At your next shoot, park closer if you can. Even 50 yards makes a difference. Set your shutter to 1/2000s, aperture to f/8, and ISO to 800. Follow the car for a lap. Don’t move. Just shoot. You’ll get some blurry ones, but you’ll also get one or two that look sharp. That’s enough to learn from. And next time, you’ll know what to tweak.
