Photography Tips

How to Shoot Hurling: Settings, Position & Getting Paid

Real Hurling photography tips from the sideline — shutter speeds, lens choices, common mistakes, and how to turn shots into income.

Cezar Pekelman
6 min read
How to Shoot Hurling: Settings, Position & Getting Paid

The ball leaves the bas at 140 km/h and you hear the crack before you see it

You're standing behind the endline at Nowlan Park. The Clare full-forward catches a high ball, turns, and swings in one motion. The sliotar is gone before your finger finishes pressing the shutter. You chimp the screen — motion blur, blown highlights, the hurley a ghost across the frame. That was my third game shooting Hurling. I drove home with 400 unusable frames and one keeper. The keeper wasn't even sharp. It was just lucky.

Why Hurling breaks your camera settings

Hurling is the fastest field sport on grass. The ball moves faster than a tennis serve. Players sprint 100 metres in ten seconds, change direction on a coin, and the light flips from harsh sun to deep shadow every time a cloud passes. You're shooting from 60 metres away at minimum — often 90 — because the sideline ropes keep you back. Floodlights at night games flicker at 50Hz. Your autofocus hunts between the hurley, the helmet grille, and the grass. Rain turns the pitch into a mirror. Dew does the same at 7pm championship throws-ins.

Most sports give you predictable lanes. Hurling gives you chaos. The ball goes backwards, sideways, high, low. A puck-out can land anywhere inside 65 metres. A sideline cut flies at head height. You cannot pre-focus a zone and wait. You have to track.

Settings that actually work

Start here. Adjust from here.

  • Shutter speed: 1/2000s minimum. 1/2500s if the sun is out. 1/3200s for puck-outs and sideline cuts. Anything slower and the sliotar becomes a streak. The hurley blade disappears.
  • Aperture: f/2.8 on a 300mm or 400mm prime. f/4 on a 100-400mm zoom. f/5.6 if you're forced to use a 70-200mm and crop. You need subject separation. The crowd behind the goal is distracting at f/8.
  • ISO: Whatever gets you the shutter speed. Day games: ISO 400-800. Floodlights: ISO 3200-6400. Higher ISO means grain. Slow shutter means blur. Grain fixes in post. Blur does not.
  • Focus mode: AI Servo / AF-C. Single point, expanded to 4 or 8 surrounding points. Not zone. Not wide. The helmet grille eats focus points. Put the point on the player's chest or the bas of the hurley.
  • Drive mode: High continuous. 8fps minimum. 12fps if your body does it. Fill the buffer, wait, shoot again. You will miss the exact strike frame if you single-shot.
  • White balance: Kelvin. 5200K for day. 4200K for LED floods. 3800K for older sodium. Auto white balance shifts when a player in a white jersey fills the frame. Your batch edit will thank you.

Where to stand and when to move

First half: behind the goal the attacking team is shooting at. You get face-on shots of forwards rising for high balls, goalkeepers spreading wide, defenders blocking low. The light is usually behind you at 2pm throws-in. Second half: swap ends. Same logic.

For puck-outs, move to the 45-metre line on the keeper's strong side. Most keepers favour one side. Watch warm-ups. You'll see the pattern. Stand where the ball lands, not where it leaves the hand.

Sideline cuts: get level with the sideline, 15 metres back. The player runs at you. The ball comes up. You get the swing, the contact, the follow-through. Stay low. Kneel if the rope allows. Low angle makes the player look powerful. High angle makes them look small.

Half-time: check your histogram. Check focus on the LCD zoomed to 100%. Delete the obvious misses. Format the card if you're under 20% space. A full buffer at the match-winning goal is a story you don't want to tell.

The mistake almost everyone makes

Chasing the ball with the camera. You pan left. The ball goes right. You jerk the lens. The subject blurs. The background streaks. The shot dies.

Fix: pick a player. Track the player. Let the ball enter and leave your frame. The player moves predictably — runs in straight lines, stops, turns. The ball does not. Your autofocus stays locked on the player. The ball will be sharp when it's near them because it's on the same focal plane. When the ball leaves, keep tracking the player. The next play starts with them.

This feels wrong at first. You want the ball. Trust it. Your hit rate on sharp frames will double inside two games.

What changes when it clicks

You stop spraying and praying. You shoot 300 frames instead of 1200. Your keeper rate climbs from 2% to 15%. You see the play develop — the dummy handpass, the shoulder feint, the goalkeeper cheating off his line — and you're already focused where the ball will be. The photos look like they were taken by someone who knows the game. Because they were.

Coaches ask for files. Players message you for their highlight reel. The county board media officer saves your number. You're not "the photographer" anymore. You're the person who gets the shot of the winning point from the Hill 16 terrace.

Turning sharp Hurling shots into paid work

Clubs need photos for sponsors, social media, match programmes, and grant applications. Most have zero budget for a pro but €150-300 for a local who shows up every week. Email the PRO. Send five sharp images from the last game. Quote a per-game rate or a season package. Include delivery by Sunday night. That reliability is worth more than perfect technique.

County boards and provincial councils license images for websites, annual reports, and All-Ireland programmes. They pay €50-100 per image used. You don't need an agent. You need a searchable archive with metadata — player names, date, competition, venue. Tag every file at ingest. Future you will get paid because past you was organised.

Players and agents need headshots, action shots for contracts, and social content. A sharp frame of a corner-back cleanly blocking a shot travels further on Instagram than any posed portrait. Print sales at club shops work too — A3 mounted prints of the county final winner sell for €40 each. You keep €25. Do the maths on a parish of 2,000 people.

Every sharp Hurling image you own is an asset. Upload your best to Surf Snaps. Clubs, media, and sponsors browse there. You set the price. The platform handles the licence. You get paid when someone downloads. No cold emails. No invoicing. Just photos you already took, working while you sleep.

One thing to try at your next game

Pick one player before throw-in. The centre-forward. The free-taker. The goalkeeper. Shoot only them for the first 15 minutes. Ignore the ball unless it's at their feet. Track their chest. Fire short bursts at every contact. Review at half-time. Count how many frames have the hurley sharp at impact. That number is your new baseline. Beat it in the second half.

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