Ask anyone who has paddled out in Bocas del Toro which wave they talk about on the flight home, and the answer is almost always the same: Silverbacks. It sits off the outer reef of Isla Bastimentos, a right-hand freight train that locals and traveling pros alike call one of the heaviest waves in Panama. You cannot walk to it, you cannot paddle to it from the beach, and on a big day you probably should not be out there at all unless you know exactly what you are doing.
Why Silverbacks?
Silverbacks breaks over a deep, cavernous reef off the northwest tip of Isla Bastimentos, a short boat run from Bocas Town and an even shorter one from Isla Carenero. It is a right-hander that starts working around 5 to 6 feet and can hold swell well past double that, turning into a hollow, fast wall that breaks in deep water before sucking dry over coral. Surfers who have ridden it describe long hold-downs and boards snapped on the reef below, which is exactly why it has earned its reputation as the serious wave of the archipelago, alongside First Beach.
→ On its biggest days, reports describe faces pushing toward 20 feet or more, measured from the back.
↳ That size only shows up a handful of times a season, and most days are a very manageable, very fun 5 to 10 feet.
Getting There and Getting Around
- Fly into Bocas del Toro's Isla Colon airport (BOC) on Air Panama, which runs flights from Panama City's Albrook Airport, with occasional direct service from Tocumen.
- → Budget travelers go overland instead: direct buses leave Panama City's Albrook Terminal for Almirante for about $28 per person, or catch an hourly bus from David for about $8.50.
- ↳ From Almirante, a short taxi to the dock runs about $1, then a water taxi across to Bocas Town costs around $5 per person.
- Once in Bocas Town, Silverbacks itself is boat-only. There is no paddling out from shore for most surfers.
- → Local boat captains and surf camps run skiffs out to the break, typically 20 to 40 minutes depending on where you launch from and sea conditions, sometimes quicker from Isla Carenero, which sits closer to Bastimentos.
- ↳ Book your boat the night before through your hostel, surf camp, or a captain recommended locally. Confirm a pickup time and a price before you leave the dock.
When to Surf
The most consistent window on this side of Panama runs roughly December through March, when north and northeast swells wrap into the Caribbean coast, with many locals also flagging good size in June and July. The rest of the year the water goes quieter, especially August through October. Water temperature stays warm year round, generally in the high 70s to mid 80s Fahrenheit, so a rashguard is usually all you need, though reef booties are worth packing regardless of season. Hazards: this is not a forgiving spot. The reef is shallow, sharp, and full of holes and cracks, currents around the takeoff zone shift and pull hard, and there is no lifeguard, no cell signal to speak of, and no quick way back to shore if something goes wrong. Surf with a partner, tell someone on land where you are headed, and do not paddle out alone on a big day.
Surf Breaks
Silverbacks
Wave: Right-hand reef break, hollow and fast, working from about 5 feet and holding well past double that on the biggest swells.
Level: Advanced to expert only. This is not a learning wave.
Paunch
Wave: A reef break off Isla Colon with two or three peaks, both rights and lefts, milder than Silverbacks but still capable of real barrels when the swell is up.
Level: Intermediate and up, making it a sensible warm-up or alternative on days when Silverbacks is too heavy.
Where to Stay
→ Prices below are approximate and were seen in November 2026.
Budget ($)
Aqua Lounge, Isla Carenero
A floating bar and hostel right on the water, a short hop from Bocas Town and close to the Carenero boat launches. Dorm beds start from around $7.42 a night, per hostelz.com.
Mid-Range ($$)
Hotel Tierra Verde, Isla Carenero
A small waterfront hotel on Carenero with easy access to boats heading out toward Bastimentos. Rooms start from around €80 (roughly $87) a night, per zenhotels.com.
Beachfront/Luxury ($$$)
Red Frog Beach Island Resort, Isla Bastimentos
A full resort on the same island Silverbacks breaks off, with bungalows, villas, and a private beach. One recent single night quote came in around $400 to $410, per hotels.com, though rates vary widely by room type and season.
Food and Drink
- Passion fruit and Abuelo rum cocktail: El Ultimo Refugio, Bocas Town
→ This house drink ran about $6, per a detailed visitor cost log published in 2026. The kitchen is known for seared tuna and ceviche with fried plantains. - Bibi's ceviche, Peruvian style: Bibi's on the Beach, Isla Carenero
→ Meals at this beachfront spot generally run about $5 to $25, per bocasdeltoro.travel, which also lists fresh lobster baskets and passion fruit margaritas. - Sushi, poke, and pizza under one roof: La Buga GastroMarket, Bocas Town
→ Five small kitchens share this Bocas Town spot, serving sushi, Italian, Mexican, and Hawaiian poke with harbor views. No reliable current price could be confirmed for this one, so treat it as a general recommendation rather than a priced pick.
Photographing Silverbacks (Surf Snaps)
A heaving right-hander breaking in open water off a jungle island is the kind of shot that is hard to get anywhere else, and it is worth having someone on the boat or the point to catch it. If you are the one shooting, upload the gallery once at surf-snaps.com/upload and it stays live as a shoppable set, with no subscription, no listing fee, and no storage bill, and nothing owed until a photo actually sells. Surf Snaps takes a 10% revenue share on a sale and nothing before that, so a $25 sale pays the photographer $22.50, and the photographer keeps copyright throughout. Surfers can browse those same sessions without creating an account at surf-snaps.com/explore, with photos listed from $8.
FAQ: Surfing Silverbacks, Bocas del Toro, Panama
Is Silverbacks good for beginners?
No. Silverbacks is a serious, boat-only reef break with a shallow, cavernous bottom and strong currents, and it is considered one of the heaviest waves in Panama. It suits advanced and expert surfers only, and even they treat a big day there with respect.
How do you get to Silverbacks?
By boat only. Most surfers hire a skiff through a surf camp, hostel, or local captain in Bocas Town or Isla Carenero, with the ride out typically taking 20 to 40 minutes depending on the launch point and sea conditions. There is no realistic paddle-out from the beach for most surfers.
When is the best time to surf Silverbacks?
Roughly December through March is the most reliable window, when north and northeast swells wrap into Panama's Caribbean coast, with some locals also pointing to good size in June and July. Conditions tend to go quieter from August through October.
How big does Silverbacks get?
It starts working around 5 to 6 feet and can hold swell well past double that on its biggest days, with some reports describing faces around 20 feet. Most sessions are a more approachable, still-serious 5 to 10 feet.
How do I get photos of my Silverbacks session?
Check a local photographer's gallery or browse recent sessions at surf-snaps.com/explore, where you can search without creating an account and photos are listed from $8. If you were the one shooting from the boat, you can list that same gallery for sale at surf-snaps.com/upload.
